Saturday, June 14, 2014

Dressing the 1860s Part II

I realized I never posted the completed 1860s dress from last year (see this post for details). For how little I do 1860s I've yet to make myself a cage crinoline, so I wear a corded petticoat and bum roll for the skirt foundation and then wear three petticoats on top.  Overall it creates a look that I quite like.  The skirt has pockets in the side seams lined in navy polished cotton.  I really like the gold silk belt I made for the gutta purcha belt buckle I found.  Other accessories include a velvet neck bow, small white standing collar and cuffs (tacked in to remove for washing), and a silver ladies watch and chain. 
1860s dress, front view
1860s dress, side view
1860s dress, back view
1860s dress, pocket detail

Monday, June 2, 2014

1940s Silk Robe

To keep a living history event going at overnight events I like to wear historic lounge wear.  For 1840s/1850s events I have a linen nightgown I made from The Workwoman's Guide and a wool/cotton challis wrapper based on an extant garment.  For the overnight 1940s events I've been attending I recently made a silk robe from a novelty print fabric I bought in the LA fashion district.
1940s Wrap Dress/Robe pattern
Novelty print silk detail
Complete with camel pocket!
The vintage pattern I used is genius as there are no buttons or zippers and goes together in less than a day! I spray starched the cut pieces, let them air dry, and then pressed each piece, which stabilized the fabric enough that it was a lot less painful to sew with than I had anticipated.  I used pinking shears to finish the seams. If I am diligent enough this week after work, I may have a pair of 1940s pajamas to wear at the event this weekend too!

Thursday, May 29, 2014

1840s Dresses at the American Textile History Museum, Lowell, MA

With a family wedding in Maine, I took the opportunity to take a week long vacation back east to visit the greater Boston area, which was on my history to-do list for a while.  We visited Old Sturbridge Village (Ian's favorite), Lowell Mills National Park (twice!), the MFA Boston, followed the Freedom Trail in Boston, Cape Neddick, Maine, and on our second time in Lowell we visited the American Textile History Museum (which was closed the day we went before).  I thought I'd share a few photos of 1840s dresses that I saw in person that I have posted as inspirations to some of my projects!  I may have squealed in delight when I happened upon the two below. :)
1838-1843 cotton & wool blend dress with pelerine.
1838-1843 cotton & wool blend dress, pelerine detail.
1845-1848 cotton dress.
1845-1848 cotton dress front detail.

Wednesday, April 16, 2014

WWI Silk Satin Hat

I am getting together a WWI era outfit for a centennial event in August and have been slowly putting bits and pieces together.  I just finished another version of the Lynn McMasters pattern (the first was cotton velvet in View D) and I was pleased with how it came out.  I made a special trip to Downtown LA earlier this year to pick up supplies at California Millinery (oh my, I love that place), and also found a satin that had a nice backing, not too stiff or slippery, and didn't scream synthetic.  I really like how this hat turned out and really liked working with a curved needle on this project.  For trim I have an antique spray of black wheat to add, and that's about it.
Lynn McMasters pattern, View B
Lynn McMasters pattern, View B interior

Tuesday, February 4, 2014

1860s Ladies Paletot

After I made Ian an 1860s smoking cap for Christmas, he wanted to make me something after he finished up a few sewing projects for other people.  He decided to make me a wool paletot to go with the new 1860s impression I've been building recently.

For the coat, I had several yards of Italian wool that I bought seven years ago at B.Black and Sons in Los Angeles.  Ian was with me at the time and urged me to buy it for a coat, little did I know it would take so long to get around to making one!  For the pattern he used the Ladies Paletot Pattern (1860-1867) with some modifications.  The exterior of the coat is bound with wool braid, welt pockets were added instead of patch pockets, and a different collar was drafted.  The bound edges and sleeve decoration are based on an original in the Met Museum. The pattern is very well made a required very little alterations and I highly recommend it.  The shape of the sleeve is so perfect for 1860s I just love it!
1860s Ladies Paletot front view.
1860s Ladies Paletot back view.
1860s Ladies Paletot side view of full coat sleeve.

Sunday, January 12, 2014

1860s Traveling Bag

In preparation of an upcoming overnight stay at an 1860s event, I spent some of my Christmas vacation researching and constructing a ladies traveling bag. I based the materials, decoration, and dimensions off of existing examples (see below). 
Mint Museum 1855-1865 Day Dress staged
with accessories including linen bag.
21"  long with 31" circumference when full (ebay auction).
Image from NorthSouthEmporium on etsy.
My version is made of drab colored linen and lined in polished cotton, as per many original examples. I applied cotton braid by hand and used the decorative feather stitch, which is used on all three of the originals above, on my sewing machine and then flat lined the polished cotton lining to the body of the bag.  I set in the linen ends, sewed the seams, and then hand applied the polished cotton lining in the interior so there are no exposed seams within the bag.  
1860s traveling bag repro side view.
1860s traveling bag repro end view.



Polished cotton lining set in by hand.
Overall it was a quick, fun project and fulfills one of my sewing goals this year to fill out my interpretation wardrobe with accessories.

Thursday, January 2, 2014

Circa 1917 Ensemble

I put together a World War I civilian outfit in a week last year to attend the Fort MacArthur timeline event in July but didn't get any pictures.  We were invited to a 1920s New Years party and were encouraged by the host to wear our stuff, even though it was a bit out of date. It's hard to see in the photo but the dress has ruffles on the bum that are just too fun.    
Bob Herron photography.
Hat made from Lynn McMasters pattern in brown cotton velvet.

Past Patterns #8159: Ladies' Dress with Two-Piece Skirt