Friday, May 20, 2011

McCall's 5129 Bonnet Pattern

This was the first bonnet that I made by myself outside of millinery class.  It's McCall's 5129, which is now out of print.  I made up View A (the red bonnet), but with modifications.  I completely ignored the instructions, since it says to use a glue gun!

Grey bonnet on left is McCalls's 5129, bonnet on right is Miller's Millinery Round Cottage Bonnet.
I dyed some ivory taffeta to a pearl grey color for the fashion fabric and cut strips from a periwinkle, lilac, and white silk plaid that I had on hand for the ties and bavolet.  The brim is lined in cotton eyelet, which really needs to be changed out.  I cite the "poor college student" clause for its use!  I have a thin layer of batting over the top of the buckram frame to cover the seams where the wire is attached and to give a nice, smooth appearance.  Instead of a gathered crown I made mine smooth and I made my bavolet much deeper. I think for my first independent attempt, it turned out okay.  I don't wear it very often, but with a few changes and tweaks, perhaps it will come out to events again.

Sunday, May 8, 2011

1840s Fan Front

I just completed this project to attend a Gold Rush living history event this weekend where I gave a presentation on material culture and foodways of the California miner in the 1840s and 1850s.  Here's the inspiration images:
Wool Dress and Pelerine, August Auctions.

Left side dress, source:

Pelerine front
Pelerine back
Without the pelerine
Full view

Detail view of fabric and fan front gathering
I used the Truly Victorian 454 German Day Dress Pattern with the fan front variation.  The fabric is a reproduction cotton print from Windham Fabrics that I bought at Mill Ends in Reno, Nevada.  I cut the neck wider (which was a pain and I'm not 100% satisfied with it yet) and I drafted the pelerine myself.  The pelerine edges are bound with self-fabric bias strips, like the wool dress above, and lined with white polished cotton.  I also took in the sleeves a good two inches from the TV 454 pattern and also brought up the armscyes, since I thought they dropped too much.  There are three bones at the bodice front and two the side seams.  Overall I'm fairly pleased with my new dress and received some very nice comments.  One little girl wanted to come over to "meet the princess," which I thought was a crack-up!