tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-52455968879485461782024-03-12T18:14:27.876-07:00Dressing the 1840sBecause there is more to living history than just the Civil Warmr.darcy1http://www.blogger.com/profile/03083995194324949931noreply@blogger.comBlogger57125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5245596887948546178.post-57426501689325224982016-06-09T10:38:00.002-07:002016-06-09T10:38:30.709-07:00Building an 18th century kitI keep going back farther in time with each new impression I put together. My husband has joined the 33rd British group and I am putting together a camp follower impression. I am going to sew the underclothes first to get in the hang of hand sewing again. So far I have only made a pair of linen pockets from the <a href="http://www.kannikskorner.com/patwomen.htm" target="_blank">Kannik's Korner Pattern KK-6001</a>, view A. I used <a href="http://www.sharonburnston.com/shifts_monogram.html" target="_blank">cross-stitch directions from Sharon Ann Burston</a> to embroider my initials on one pocket and my husband's on the other. I have a JP Ryan stays pattern and Kannik's Korner shift and bedgown patterns coming in the mail this week, so I'll have plenty to keep me busy this summer.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-49krLFLph7Q/V1mpT1jSVbI/AAAAAAAACRc/si9ckbg9cRMtGxXiOVTF0lhr2-Az-J8agCLcB/s1600/Untitled.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-49krLFLph7Q/V1mpT1jSVbI/AAAAAAAACRc/si9ckbg9cRMtGxXiOVTF0lhr2-Az-J8agCLcB/s320/Untitled.jpg" width="254" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One pocket KK-6001, view A in progress</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ghAoeCnDQUU/V1mpT0r5KTI/AAAAAAAACRY/Gy-jOWaCDCc_-5NCG3UA5hxrmJJGf85qwCLcB/s1600/13323264_10209198278774918_5010005750356290969_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ghAoeCnDQUU/V1mpT0r5KTI/AAAAAAAACRY/Gy-jOWaCDCc_-5NCG3UA5hxrmJJGf85qwCLcB/s320/13323264_10209198278774918_5010005750356290969_o.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Completed pair of pockets, KK-6001, view A</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />mr.darcy1http://www.blogger.com/profile/03083995194324949931noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5245596887948546178.post-18087712724207411002016-05-11T15:34:00.003-07:002016-05-11T15:34:34.537-07:001815 Regency / Empire AttireThis post is way overdue to document my first attempt at Regency era attire. Last summer my husband attended the 200th Anniversary of the Battle of Waterloo and had been building his French impression over the past year. Although I did not attend the Waterloo event (I went to Amsterdam instead, so don't cry for me), I did put together a basic wardrobe because if you ever have an excuse to make a Empire waist dress, you make one!<br />
<br />
I made a simple linen chemise using the <a href="http://www.lafnmoon.com/product_p/p115.htm" target="_blank">Laughing Moon pattern</a> and then I started work on a sheer muslin dress using materials that I had in my stash using the <a href="http://www.lafnmoon.com/product_p/p126.htm" target="_blank">Laughing Moon's fall front pattern</a>. My dress design was inspired by an original in the Kyoto Museum Collection.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-y6A7wLDFfp4/VOuNhrYipOI/AAAAAAAACNw/ogjothhXTf8/s1600/tumblr_l502p3pP0O1qbqhxuo1_400.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-y6A7wLDFfp4/VOuNhrYipOI/AAAAAAAACNw/ogjothhXTf8/s1600/tumblr_l502p3pP0O1qbqhxuo1_400.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kyoto Museum Collection</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I used a woven cotton for the inset front panel to replicate the insertion on the original. I used the same woven material for the fall front bodice and trimmed the puff sleeve band. <br />
<br />
To accessorize, I made a silk reticule from my bonnet scraps using a pattern from the <i><a href="https://books.google.com/books?id=WO0XAAAAYAAJ&pg=PR15&dq=American+Girl%27s+Book+three-sided+reticule&hl=en&sa=X&ei=OI7rVNCwI8zVoASIooHwDg&ved=0CDAQ6AEwAA#v=onepage&q=American%20Girl's%20Book%20three-sided%20reticule&f=false" target="_blank">American Girl's Book</a></i> (pg. 265). I used leftover silk satin from my wedding dress to make the piping and self-fabric cording. The interior is lined in white silk. I also made a silk ribbon to tie at my waist to break up the silhouette. I wore a coral necklace and gold lead hair pins that I purchased in Paris years ago. For footwear I wore my bridal slippers made by <a href="http://www.robertlandhistoricshoes.com/" target="_blank">Robert Land</a>. Overall, <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/41384443@N04/4073070906/in/gallery-alise101-72157625712137198/" target="_blank">this</a> was the atheistic I was going after.<br />
<br />
What I was most excited about was my hair! I am admittedly horrible when it comes to dressing my own hair. I've attempted rag curls and pin curls before in the past, with bad results. This time I used bendy straws and IT WAS AMAZING. No kinky ends, lots of bounce, even with my largely straight thick hair.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-mvbufvCyYiE/VzOylZ6jjGI/AAAAAAAACRI/y9UOvDmdy_s-rBPNtWoxqlnvpOcnyogZQCLcB/s1600/13161957_1361690730515118_7980487873606045540_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-mvbufvCyYiE/VzOylZ6jjGI/AAAAAAAACRI/y9UOvDmdy_s-rBPNtWoxqlnvpOcnyogZQCLcB/s320/13161957_1361690730515118_7980487873606045540_o.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ta da.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
mr.darcy1http://www.blogger.com/profile/03083995194324949931noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5245596887948546178.post-32943159526486512482016-02-22T10:36:00.001-08:002016-02-22T21:10:11.748-08:001815 Morning Dress I recently completed a morning dress for an upcoming overnight event at an inn. I was inspired by several originals including this:<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3eyRrMFnsqo/VstTleW5EuI/AAAAAAAACQs/oSpkNzZBJak/s1600/1975.274.2_F.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3eyRrMFnsqo/VstTleW5EuI/AAAAAAAACQs/oSpkNzZBJak/s320/1975.274.2_F.jpg" width="174" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">1815-1818 Met (Accession Number: 1975.274.2)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I purchased the fabric at <a href="http://www.lowpricefabric.com/default.aspx" target="_blank">Michael Levine</a>'s in Los Angeles for entirely too much per yard, but when you are making a Napoleonic-era dress and the bee print fabric is called "Josephine" YOU BUY ALL OF IT. <br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-x_jAs80mkTc/VstUJgWBp8I/AAAAAAAACQ0/A2t8F8UGxE0/s1600/12631506_10208107846714798_7980318266737470861_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-x_jAs80mkTc/VstUJgWBp8I/AAAAAAAACQ0/A2t8F8UGxE0/s320/12631506_10208107846714798_7980318266737470861_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">BEES!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I used the <a href="http://www.lafnmoon.com/product_p/p130.htm" target="_blank">Laughing Moon #130 Wrapping Front Gown</a> pattern with modifications so there is no lining, just extensive hand finishing. I drafted up my own collar and trimmed it with a ruffle made with the selvage edging (see image above), which I also used for the ruffle along the bottom. The sleeves are very long, and made even longer with a cuff ruffle. A self-fabric tie is the closure. Overall, the instructions were clear, I had fun with self-fabric trim, and now I need to work on a cap!<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hfwBiCA1xW4/VstUWSYJWtI/AAAAAAAACQ8/U4Twar2X_qA/s1600/12743999_10208304207263689_8999685654553830152_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hfwBiCA1xW4/VstUWSYJWtI/AAAAAAAACQ8/U4Twar2X_qA/s320/12743999_10208304207263689_8999685654553830152_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Finished Laughing Moon #130 Wrapping Front Gown with modifications</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
mr.darcy1http://www.blogger.com/profile/03083995194324949931noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5245596887948546178.post-68844317989770358002015-07-24T08:18:00.001-07:002015-07-26T14:26:35.424-07:001860s Velvet Hair Net<span style="font-size: small;">I made this 1860s velvet hair net after <i>years</i> of wrestling with my hair. It's long, thick, and I have ZERO hair dressing skills. I knew I wanted something neutral and I was lucky to find a ribbon that matched my natural hair color. The black ribbon is vintage from a friend. </span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: small;">To make the net, I cut a round piece of cardboard and marked the the center with a north-south and east-west guideline. I cut long strips (I think 16") of the brown velvet and wove a lattice pattern like a pie. I then used pins to keep the strips in place and then sewed each overlap point with matching thread (see image below). THIS TOOK AGES. Once the lattice part was sewn, I finished the edges by making a loop at the end of each strip. THIS ALSO TOOK AGES. The loops were then used to thread a length of brown twill tape that meets at the nape of my neck. The twill tape is pulled tight once I have the net in place. To cover the loops and twill tape, I pleated the black velvet, as was common in period images (see below). I roll my hair into a rat at the nape of my neck, put the net on, and secure with a few bobby pins. So much easier than making buns, braids, and rolls that I used to. Also, I just like the neat and tidy look.</span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="font-family: inherit; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0E7-JW234EY/VbJJzXpP7iI/AAAAAAAACPg/4GED9BMZwgo/s320/IMG_3687.JPG" width="320" /></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">1860s velvet hair net side view</span></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="font-family: inherit; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-rqpoGpRAVBk/VbJJ57YhE9I/AAAAAAAACPw/JLnww0Cham8/s1600/IMG_3686.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-rqpoGpRAVBk/VbJJ57YhE9I/AAAAAAAACPw/JLnww0Cham8/s320/IMG_3686.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">1860s velvet hair net back view</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="font-family: inherit; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lcZ7Cm_B9-s/VbJJ1LrLhUI/AAAAAAAACPo/o0bl3VS0prE/s1600/IMG_3682.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lcZ7Cm_B9-s/VbJJ1LrLhUI/AAAAAAAACPo/o0bl3VS0prE/s320/IMG_3682.JPG" width="240" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">1860s velvet hair net bathroom mirror shot!</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="font-family: inherit; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><img border="0" src="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-mT4koQJMou8/VbOpk1rd6qI/AAAAAAAACQA/BXlOFpG3dUM/s640/blogger-image-1289692091.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" /></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Latticed ribbon pinned in place.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qkRMGwYLjgM/VVZ7439L_qI/AAAAAAAACOk/Dbp5vcLA1Ag/s1600/34f94e974554c90f7e45f5cd3b27c275.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qkRMGwYLjgM/VVZ7439L_qI/AAAAAAAACOk/Dbp5vcLA1Ag/s320/34f94e974554c90f7e45f5cd3b27c275.jpg" width="296" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Godey's</i> 1864</span><span style="font-size: small;"> </span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="font-family: inherit; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_SoXTSAA1ow/VVZ-_ENr7eI/AAAAAAAACO8/7zK_zsuPXlk/s1600/9cf3fe300ea15295828581ca02257d87.jpg" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); font-size: 17px; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: black;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_SoXTSAA1ow/VVZ-_ENr7eI/AAAAAAAACO8/7zK_zsuPXlk/s320/9cf3fe300ea15295828581ca02257d87.jpg" width="240" /></span></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); font-size: xx-small;">Flat velvet ribbon </span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="font-family: inherit;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="font-family: inherit;">
</div>
mr.darcy1http://www.blogger.com/profile/03083995194324949931noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5245596887948546178.post-41635419184156743322014-12-04T06:25:00.000-08:002014-12-04T06:27:01.105-08:00Modern Cat Quilt<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">My sister and I have started a tradition of making quilts for expecting friends and co-workers. We made two crib sized quilts over the last few years, but a co-worker of ours recently adopted a two year old from overseas, we tried our skills at something a little bigger. Inspired by the fact our co-worker is the neighborhood cat lady, we decide to replicate a quilt with an online tutorial for the quilt blocks.</span><br />
<div>
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">Since the quilt is for a toddler, we went with a grey background instead of white (kids=dirt). We chose three shades of green for the back with a slight size gradient from light to dark, and the edge is bound with a random black and white dotted fabric, all in cotton. The quilting design followed the quilt seams and then the edges were bound by hand. </span><br />
<div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-dCmetK45aFc/VIBtymkW6II/AAAAAAAACNI/1wze_pqyviQ/s640/blogger-image--1623615798.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-dCmetK45aFc/VIBtymkW6II/AAAAAAAACNI/1wze_pqyviQ/s640/blogger-image--1623615798.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Front</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-VEQMXJsW3xA/VIBtzgL6aXI/AAAAAAAACNQ/9KXHqEP8JRA/s640/blogger-image--1769203938.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-VEQMXJsW3xA/VIBtzgL6aXI/AAAAAAAACNQ/9KXHqEP8JRA/s640/blogger-image--1769203938.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Green ombré backing</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-ZBKQf9LJszo/VIBt0hfD1KI/AAAAAAAACNY/Eqv6UOnmO5A/s640/blogger-image-1813631766.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-ZBKQf9LJszo/VIBt0hfD1KI/AAAAAAAACNY/Eqv6UOnmO5A/s640/blogger-image-1813631766.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Edmond helping, cat approved.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
</div>
mr.darcy1http://www.blogger.com/profile/03083995194324949931noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5245596887948546178.post-91023272290970991882014-11-24T08:54:00.000-08:002014-11-24T08:56:08.241-08:00Regency Bonnet Completed<div style="text-align: justify;">
After staring at me <a href="http://dressingthe1840s.blogspot.com/2014/10/my-first-foray-into-regency-millinery.html" target="_blank">untouched for way too long</a>, I decided to finish my bonnet this Saturday. I only had scraps left over from cutting out the silk exterior fabric, so I had to piece together strips for the bonnet ties, which I then hand felled. The ties are attached under the last row of trim on the crown, which seems to be a pretty standard practice of the time. I had some bias cut strips of white silk that I pieced together and then pinked the edges. My first version used a gathering stitch, but it was too wild. My second attempt was pleated, sewn, and then trimmed down further and then applied to the brim. Many of the original fashion plates I referenced had some sort of trim on the brim, either lace or other detail, and adding some white really brightens up the entire hat. I added a little bow to the back, because a hat can never have too many bows!</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-CiOXKsni-tk/VHNgcINhDXI/AAAAAAAACMg/sRzs-3QpoLs/s1600/10686869_10204958761029624_4126872843526132859_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-CiOXKsni-tk/VHNgcINhDXI/AAAAAAAACMg/sRzs-3QpoLs/s1600/10686869_10204958761029624_4126872843526132859_n.jpg" height="320" width="205" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Inspiration 1814 fashion plate </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-IC5EzC3u-4Y/VHNgckueHzI/AAAAAAAACMo/lw9TmwXqE_Y/s1600/10805663_10204958709468335_7191918734987576725_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-IC5EzC3u-4Y/VHNgckueHzI/AAAAAAAACMo/lw9TmwXqE_Y/s1600/10805663_10204958709468335_7191918734987576725_n.jpg" height="320" width="239" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Regency bonnet front view</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-nZrSlwK6S6Y/VHNgdoHkLWI/AAAAAAAACMs/YYBa7DlmXJE/s1600/1502547_10204958709348332_1496759014064234519_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-nZrSlwK6S6Y/VHNgdoHkLWI/AAAAAAAACMs/YYBa7DlmXJE/s1600/1502547_10204958709348332_1496759014064234519_n.jpg" height="320" width="239" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Regency bonnet 3/4 view, ties attached under trim.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YRwpegOR7eo/VHNgchhzjAI/AAAAAAAACMk/AhIkGG7k220/s1600/10734123_10204958708788318_2338872518314133647_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YRwpegOR7eo/VHNgchhzjAI/AAAAAAAACMk/AhIkGG7k220/s1600/10734123_10204958708788318_2338872518314133647_n.jpg" height="320" width="239" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Regency bonnet brim view</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
mr.darcy1http://www.blogger.com/profile/03083995194324949931noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5245596887948546178.post-35930671251853240832014-10-14T05:50:00.000-07:002014-11-24T08:51:03.225-08:00My First Foray Into Regency MillineryI am slowly putting together a Regency wardrobe for the 200th Anniversary of Waterloo, and I've always wanted to make myself clothing from this era. This weekend I started on a Lynn McMasters <a href="http://www.lynnmcmasters.com/newregencypattern.html" target="_blank">Regency Bonnet Pattern</a>. I can't say I am much of a fan of her patterns and in the future will probably just draft my own. I minored in Theater Arts in college and took a millinery class and should really put those skills to use again when it comes to making custom patterns. <br>
<div>
<br></div>
<div>
I chose to make view A and used silk taffeta from Carmels Fabrics for the exterior. Taffeta is fiddly and shows every lump and pin prick, but looks so pretty when done well! I am still working on trimming the exterior and need to make the bonnet ties, but made good progress this weekend.</div>
<div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-UGXRWD31d-I/VD0ZyyQRgQI/AAAAAAAACMI/jQgiBEQtO8A/s640/blogger-image--1455768641.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-UGXRWD31d-I/VD0ZyyQRgQI/AAAAAAAACMI/jQgiBEQtO8A/s640/blogger-image--1455768641.jpg"></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pleating the inner brim.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-HJ5IOM5TCAM/VD0Zxn97UtI/AAAAAAAACMA/HyUG1GrMiO8/s640/blogger-image-137796624.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: black;"><img border="0" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-HJ5IOM5TCAM/VD0Zxn97UtI/AAAAAAAACMA/HyUG1GrMiO8/s640/blogger-image-137796624.jpg"></span></a></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-xfHz3LlZMdg/VD0Zz1_ymeI/AAAAAAAACMQ/drKRLHgFdxw/s640/blogger-image-981133086.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-xfHz3LlZMdg/VD0Zz1_ymeI/AAAAAAAACMQ/drKRLHgFdxw/s640/blogger-image-981133086.jpg"></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Add caption</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: black;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-HJ5IOM5TCAM/VD0Zxn97UtI/AAAAAAAACMA/HyUG1GrMiO8/s640/blogger-image-137796624.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a></span></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<span style="color: #0000ee;"><u><br></u></span></div>
<br></div>
mr.darcy1http://www.blogger.com/profile/03083995194324949931noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5245596887948546178.post-34412402683617691312014-08-19T09:36:00.000-07:002016-02-25T11:11:02.250-08:00WWI Red Cross Knitting Bag<div style="text-align: justify;">
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: #303030;"><span style="background-color: white;">This weekend I threw together a linen Red Cross knitting bag based off an original that sold on ebay a while back (left image). The original measures 20" tall and 18-19" wide, as does my reproduction (right image). There was no information if the original had a lining, but I put in a light colored polished cotton from my sewing stash. The cross is red cotton flannel. I went on an epic quest to four different stores in a metropolitan area to get the purse handles. Only Jo-Ann's Supercenters carry purse making supplies, Michael's has clear plastic handles to crochet cover, nothing at Wal-Mart, and finally Hancock Fabrics was the promised land. I wish the handles were a bit larger to spread out the gathered fabric better, but the next size up was enormous. I wanted to have it made for this weekend as I am attending a WWI Living History event and wanted to work on my knitting with a better knitting bag than the vintage one I have that looks good for WWII, but not WWI.</span></span></div>
<span style="color: #303030; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , "times" , serif;"><span style="background-color: white; font-size: 12px;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lNx8GFkYzR8/U_N6iRB4mWI/AAAAAAAACLk/iNeJSOq77D0/s1600/Untitled.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="216" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lNx8GFkYzR8/U_N6iRB4mWI/AAAAAAAACLk/iNeJSOq77D0/s1600/Untitled.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Original WWI knitting bag (left), my reproduction (right).</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</span></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-E3F8RzNEIzY/U_N8cCecBWI/AAAAAAAACLw/8aViAM4eFfo/s1600/photo.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-E3F8RzNEIzY/U_N8cCecBWI/AAAAAAAACLw/8aViAM4eFfo/s1600/photo.JPG" width="239" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Polished cotton bag lining.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
mr.darcy1http://www.blogger.com/profile/03083995194324949931noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5245596887948546178.post-34092209533088924302014-06-14T12:36:00.001-07:002014-06-14T12:36:48.896-07:00Dressing the 1860s Part III realized I never posted the completed 1860s dress from last year (see <a href="http://dressingthe1840s.blogspot.com/2013/09/dressing-1860s.html" target="_blank">this post</a> for details). For how little I do 1860s I've yet to make myself a cage crinoline, so I wear a corded petticoat and bum roll for the skirt foundation and then wear three petticoats on top. Overall it creates a look that I quite like. The skirt has pockets in the side seams lined in navy polished cotton. I really like the gold silk belt I made for the gutta purcha belt buckle I found. Other accessories include a velvet neck bow, small white standing collar and cuffs (tacked in to remove for washing), and a silver ladies watch and chain. <br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Y44p757-2Lo/U5yfeLSvPbI/AAAAAAAACKo/zXOeb9TUDQw/s1600/CIMG4730.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Y44p757-2Lo/U5yfeLSvPbI/AAAAAAAACKo/zXOeb9TUDQw/s1600/CIMG4730.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">1860s dress, front view</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-35wrN8Mflr0/U5yfisr4HTI/AAAAAAAACKw/TNVotHM9MFY/s1600/CIMG4732.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-35wrN8Mflr0/U5yfisr4HTI/AAAAAAAACKw/TNVotHM9MFY/s1600/CIMG4732.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">1860s dress, side view</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TN3Xt4lPnq0/U5yfkEoWdPI/AAAAAAAACK4/7QMXi244t6Y/s1600/CIMG4733.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TN3Xt4lPnq0/U5yfkEoWdPI/AAAAAAAACK4/7QMXi244t6Y/s1600/CIMG4733.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">1860s dress, back view</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-moVWKrN04KA/U5yiEfesOII/AAAAAAAACLE/PtdZsIOeymg/s1600/1209398_10201939218582950_1018096472_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-moVWKrN04KA/U5yiEfesOII/AAAAAAAACLE/PtdZsIOeymg/s1600/1209398_10201939218582950_1018096472_n.jpg" height="320" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">1860s dress, pocket detail</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />mr.darcy1http://www.blogger.com/profile/03083995194324949931noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5245596887948546178.post-4068626250914851412014-06-02T18:34:00.002-07:002014-06-14T12:30:28.215-07:001940s Silk RobeTo keep a living history event going at overnight events I like to wear historic lounge wear. For 1840s/1850s events I have a linen nightgown I made from <a href="http://books.google.com/books?id=JCsBAAAAQAAJ&q=night+gown#v=twopage&q=%22plate%208%22&f=false" target="_blank">The Workwoman's Guide</a> and a <a href="http://dressingthe1840s.blogspot.com/2011/02/1840s-1850s-wrapper.html" target="_blank">wool/cotton challis wrapper</a> based on an extant garment. For the overnight 1940s events I've been attending I recently made a silk robe from a novelty print fabric I bought in the LA fashion district.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-81NXplpLziQ/U4y1Em-oIHI/AAAAAAAACJ0/eSb1eQ3lkBE/s1600/dress.bmp" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-81NXplpLziQ/U4y1Em-oIHI/AAAAAAAACJ0/eSb1eQ3lkBE/s1600/dress.bmp" height="320" width="228" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">1940s Wrap Dress/Robe pattern</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yhqroKRAOXQ/U4y1Ek5GJpI/AAAAAAAACJ4/NzhCANMYsGg/s1600/silk.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yhqroKRAOXQ/U4y1Ek5GJpI/AAAAAAAACJ4/NzhCANMYsGg/s1600/silk.jpg" height="320" width="239" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Novelty print silk detail<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-p1ekcpAdnss/U40l1qhecXI/AAAAAAAACKM/W0kFbXkyXY4/s1600/download-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-p1ekcpAdnss/U40l1qhecXI/AAAAAAAACKM/W0kFbXkyXY4/s1600/download-1.jpg" height="320" width="239" /></a></div>
Complete with camel pocket!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
The vintage pattern I used is genius as there are no buttons or zippers and goes together in less than a day! I spray starched the cut pieces, let them air dry, and then pressed each piece, which stabilized the fabric enough that it was a lot less painful to sew with than I had anticipated. I used pinking shears to finish the seams. If I am diligent enough this week after work, I may have a pair of 1940s pajamas to wear at the event this weekend too!</div>
mr.darcy1http://www.blogger.com/profile/03083995194324949931noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5245596887948546178.post-59042239113506788342014-05-29T14:28:00.003-07:002014-06-14T12:31:13.507-07:001840s Dresses at the American Textile History Museum, Lowell, MA With a family wedding in Maine, I took the opportunity to take a week long vacation back east to visit the greater Boston area, which was on my history to-do list for a while. We visited <a href="https://www.osv.org/" target="_blank">Old Sturbridge Village</a> (Ian's favorite), Lowell Mills National Park (twice!), the MFA Boston, followed the Freedom Trail in Boston, Cape Neddick, Maine, and on our second time in Lowell we visited the American Textile History Museum (which was closed the day we went before). I thought I'd share a few photos of 1840s dresses that I saw in person that I have posted as inspirations to some of my projects! I may have squealed in delight when I happened upon the two below. :)<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-pxjmrCcjqt0/U4elU9AcbZI/AAAAAAAACJE/keJlKC0jwjA/s1600/10361084_10203625939669923_133332664_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-pxjmrCcjqt0/U4elU9AcbZI/AAAAAAAACJE/keJlKC0jwjA/s1600/10361084_10203625939669923_133332664_n.jpg" height="320" width="239" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">1838-1843 cotton & wool blend dress with pelerine.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Q9P5Ea1i0kQ/U4elVC9-KbI/AAAAAAAACJU/m2UhNX3XCrI/s1600/10379296_10203625939709924_1075619142_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Q9P5Ea1i0kQ/U4elVC9-KbI/AAAAAAAACJU/m2UhNX3XCrI/s1600/10379296_10203625939709924_1075619142_n.jpg" height="320" width="239" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">1838-1843 cotton & wool blend dress, pelerine detail.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3y9wGDTDomQ/U4elXH0UafI/AAAAAAAACJc/HW8RwZfc5yE/s1600/10388397_10203625939469918_234634386_n.jpg" height="320" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="239" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">1845-1848 cotton dress.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3y9wGDTDomQ/U4elXH0UafI/AAAAAAAACJc/HW8RwZfc5yE/s1600/10388397_10203625939469918_234634386_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-KIlNhjmUzP0/U4elVG3vSYI/AAAAAAAACJI/D2N6r9VjDSQ/s1600/10384940_10203625939589921_2088675016_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-KIlNhjmUzP0/U4elVG3vSYI/AAAAAAAACJI/D2N6r9VjDSQ/s1600/10384940_10203625939589921_2088675016_n.jpg" height="320" width="239" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">1845-1848 cotton dress front detail.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
mr.darcy1http://www.blogger.com/profile/03083995194324949931noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5245596887948546178.post-1850196888635878472014-04-16T13:00:00.000-07:002014-06-14T12:31:42.427-07:00WWI Silk Satin HatI am getting together a WWI era outfit for a centennial event in August and have been slowly putting bits and pieces together. I just finished another version of the <a href="http://www.lynnmcmasters.com/PostWWI.html" target="_blank">Lynn McMasters pattern</a> (the first was cotton velvet in View D) and I was pleased with how it came out. I made a special trip to Downtown LA earlier this year to pick up supplies at California Millinery (oh my, I love that place), and also found a satin that had a nice backing, not too stiff or slippery, and didn't scream synthetic. I really like how this hat turned out and really liked working with a curved needle on this project. For trim I have an antique spray of black wheat to add, and that's about it.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-gVThKKN8QVE/U07gtKkZeCI/AAAAAAAACIk/IxfeWtnf6Rs/s1600/photo+1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-gVThKKN8QVE/U07gtKkZeCI/AAAAAAAACIk/IxfeWtnf6Rs/s1600/photo+1.JPG" height="320" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lynn McMasters pattern, View B</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-22a3e73Oh9w/U07gs2RhqBI/AAAAAAAACIg/adyHvtj1qCc/s1600/photo+3.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-22a3e73Oh9w/U07gs2RhqBI/AAAAAAAACIg/adyHvtj1qCc/s1600/photo+3.JPG" height="239" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lynn McMasters pattern, View B interior</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
<br /></div>
mr.darcy1http://www.blogger.com/profile/03083995194324949931noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5245596887948546178.post-57336340787674865902014-02-04T15:36:00.001-08:002014-11-24T08:51:03.229-08:001860s Ladies PaletotAfter I made Ian an <a href="http://dressingthe1840s.blogspot.com/2013/12/1864-smoking-cap.html" target="_blank">1860s smoking cap for</a> Christmas, he wanted to make me something after he finished up a few sewing projects for other people. He decided to make me a wool paletot to go with the new 1860s impression I've been building recently.<br>
<br>
For the coat, I had several yards of Italian wool that I bought <i>seven years ago</i> at <a href="http://www.bblackandsons.com/" target="_blank">B.Black and Sons</a> in Los Angeles. Ian was with me at the time and urged me to buy it for a coat, little did I know it would take so long to get around to making one! For the pattern he used the Kay Fig <a href="http://shop.originals-by-kay.com/product.sc?productId=8" target="_blank">Ladies Paletot Pattern (1860-1867)</a> with some modifications. The exterior of the coat is bound with wool braid, welt pockets were added instead of patch pockets, and a different collar was drafted. The bound edges and sleeve decoration are based on an original in the Met Museum. The pattern is very well made a required very little alterations and I highly recommend it. The shape of the sleeve is so perfect for 1860s I just love it!<br>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ivIm74T2Dy8/UvGC8MiXHjI/AAAAAAAACHw/ysXiEeybpDk/s1600/1551598_751881788156044_815197698_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ivIm74T2Dy8/UvGC8MiXHjI/AAAAAAAACHw/ysXiEeybpDk/s1600/1551598_751881788156044_815197698_n.jpg" height="320" width="255"></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kay Fig 1860s Ladies Paletot front view.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cagOdUuNzPw/UvF3rC7ptZI/AAAAAAAACHQ/bAQL2QFYwxs/s1600/1509052_751881791489377_187884619_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cagOdUuNzPw/UvF3rC7ptZI/AAAAAAAACHQ/bAQL2QFYwxs/s1600/1509052_751881791489377_187884619_n.jpg" height="320" width="240"></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">1860s Ladies Paletot back view.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-A-OquPG6aWo/UvF3r_q8ruI/AAAAAAAACHU/6PGndbbwB_Q/s1600/1511647_751881808156042_1999799566_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-A-OquPG6aWo/UvF3r_q8ruI/AAAAAAAACHU/6PGndbbwB_Q/s1600/1511647_751881808156042_1999799566_n.jpg" height="320" width="240"></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">1860s Ladies Paletot side view of full coat sleeve.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
mr.darcy1http://www.blogger.com/profile/03083995194324949931noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5245596887948546178.post-41699093944077169732014-01-12T18:34:00.000-08:002014-06-14T12:32:43.824-07:001860s Traveling Bag<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">
<span style="text-align: left;">In preparation of an upcoming overnight stay at an 1860s event, I spent some of my Christmas vacation researching and constructing a ladies traveling bag. I based the materials, decoration, and dimensions off of existing examples (see below). </span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-LyV03qXTOw4/UsrkUSEwJ-I/AAAAAAAACGM/pqe5WqVUhWg/s1600/80b52ed515b144e7947babdba74d3fb0.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-LyV03qXTOw4/UsrkUSEwJ-I/AAAAAAAACGM/pqe5WqVUhWg/s1600/80b52ed515b144e7947babdba74d3fb0.jpg" height="320" width="220" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mint Museum 1855-1865 Day Dress staged <br />
with accessories including linen bag.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zzGXwKlgIuw/UsrkUdYzZxI/AAAAAAAACGQ/_9TAeRvP6e4/s1600/a80bf0b4229d5141b373b03a0c3c7b75.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zzGXwKlgIuw/UsrkUdYzZxI/AAAAAAAACGQ/_9TAeRvP6e4/s1600/a80bf0b4229d5141b373b03a0c3c7b75.jpg" height="241" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">21" long with 31" circumference when full (ebay auction).</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-J1JaEarrZYw/UsrlgcLgblI/AAAAAAAACGg/2gmE7nl3VVI/s1600/il_fullxfull.391500760_rfyw.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-J1JaEarrZYw/UsrlgcLgblI/AAAAAAAACGg/2gmE7nl3VVI/s1600/il_fullxfull.391500760_rfyw.jpg" height="102" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Image from <a href="http://www.etsy.com/listing/85536669/victorian-travel-bag-tan-linen-black" target="_blank">NorthSouthEmporium</a> on etsy.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">
<span style="text-align: left;">My version is made of drab colored linen and lined in polished cotton, as per many original examples. I applied cotton braid by hand and used the decorative feather stitch, which is used on all three of the originals above, on my sewing machine and then flat lined the polished cotton lining to the body of the bag. I set in the linen ends, sewed the seams, and then hand applied the polished cotton lining in the interior so there are no exposed seams within the bag. </span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-QfYKckN6OxM/UtMll3hEadI/AAAAAAAACG0/uZDiri-03EE/s640/blogger-image--293121208.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">1860s traveling bag repro side view.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-JVj0Vhg089U/UtMlnPdNtpI/AAAAAAAACG8/kalo9Xi7vkk/s640/blogger-image-179815770.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-JVj0Vhg089U/UtMlnPdNtpI/AAAAAAAACG8/kalo9Xi7vkk/s640/blogger-image-179815770.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">1860s traveling bag repro end view.</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-x0Ow-gHYsxE/UtMllA9zJ8I/AAAAAAAACGs/tqtcLicBuXU/s640/blogger-image-1063907860.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light',HelveticaNeue-Light,helvetica,arial,sans-serif; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-x0Ow-gHYsxE/UtMllA9zJ8I/AAAAAAAACGs/tqtcLicBuXU/s400/blogger-image-1063907860.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Polished cotton lining set in by hand.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Overall it was a quick, fun project and fulfills one of my sewing goals this year to fill out my interpretation wardrobe with accessories.<br />
<br />mr.darcy1http://www.blogger.com/profile/03083995194324949931noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5245596887948546178.post-71992225194967871182014-01-02T13:16:00.001-08:002014-06-14T12:33:07.413-07:00Circa 1917 Ensemble<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I put together a World War I civilian outfit in a week last year to attend the Fort MacArthur timeline event in July but didn't get any pictures. We were invited to a 1920s New Years party and were encouraged by the host to wear our stuff, even though it was a bit out of date. It's hard to see in the photo but the dress has ruffles on the bum that are just too fun. </div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8whkAkpEixY/UsXT_PhQO9I/AAAAAAAACF8/UpWDAw4A29A/s1600/1522053_10152052710642459_796847672_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8whkAkpEixY/UsXT_PhQO9I/AAAAAAAACF8/UpWDAw4A29A/s320/1522053_10152052710642459_796847672_n.jpg" height="320" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bob Herron photography.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Hat made from <a href="http://www.lynnmcmasters.com/PostWWI.html" target="_blank">Lynn McMasters pattern</a> in brown cotton velvet.<br />
<br />
Past Patterns<a href="http://www.pastpatterns.com/8159.html" target="_blank"> <span style="background-color: white;">#8159: Ladies' Dress with Two-Piece Skirt</span></a>mr.darcy1http://www.blogger.com/profile/03083995194324949931noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5245596887948546178.post-43994109643701493052013-12-23T18:18:00.000-08:002013-12-23T18:22:08.118-08:001864 Smoking Cap<div>
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">I finished what I thought was going to be a quick project after several weekends of handwork, but I think it turned out okay for my first attempt at soutache</span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">.</span></div>
<br />
I used the January 1864 pattern and directions from Peterson's Magazine. As per the instructions, with the black velvet base and use of blue soutache I used gold beads as the accent. The tassels is gold and blue embroidery floss bound together and set under a gold decorative button. The interior is black sateen embroidered with a diamond motif and padded with wool batting. I really enjoyed working with the soutache and the beading went relatively quickly, it was picking out the tissue paper from the crown after the braid and bead work was done that took FOREVER. Tweezers saved the day!<br />
<div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5MEGyg-z9iw/UrhwTGjCC2I/AAAAAAAACFY/IAAe3RxY6J0/s1600/d04daf812c53675791fe4b1f5bea2033.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5MEGyg-z9iw/UrhwTGjCC2I/AAAAAAAACFY/IAAe3RxY6J0/s320/d04daf812c53675791fe4b1f5bea2033.jpg" width="212" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">January 1864 Smoking Cap instructions from Perterson's Magazine.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-shQrlQtwfeg/UrjuE5aL6RI/AAAAAAAACFo/Y725vbFylBA/s640/blogger-image-343446036.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-shQrlQtwfeg/UrjuE5aL6RI/AAAAAAAACFo/Y725vbFylBA/s640/blogger-image-343446036.jpg" /></a></div>
</td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Finished 1860s Smoking Cap.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
mr.darcy1http://www.blogger.com/profile/03083995194324949931noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5245596887948546178.post-54468120647942927282013-11-12T18:16:00.001-08:002014-06-14T12:34:43.787-07:001840s to 1940s<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
I've been participating in living history events in the Bay Area this past year and finally got around to make myself a wool crepe dress for 1940s civilian. The dress is actually two seperate pieces and I have enough wool left over to make the matching bolero! I need to shorten the skirt a little more but overall I am really pleased how it came out. I never sewed with wool crepe before and it was lovely to sew. I also made shoulder pads using the directions with the pattern and they were the perfect size to give a nice shape to the shoulders without looking like a line backer! The hat I am wearing is vintage and the pocket square is my grandmother's who was training to be a nurse during World War II. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-luM7o4P1L30/UoLg_XS6IxI/AAAAAAAABT4/lwgT26yVZWs/s640/blogger-image--827013112.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-luM7o4P1L30/UoLg_XS6IxI/AAAAAAAABT4/lwgT26yVZWs/s640/blogger-image--827013112.jpg" /></a></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-6NJh5abYEBs/UoLhANPH1KI/AAAAAAAABUA/QNrKHW19NBI/s640/blogger-image-113303106.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-6NJh5abYEBs/UoLhANPH1KI/AAAAAAAABUA/QNrKHW19NBI/s640/blogger-image-113303106.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo by Dave Nelson<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-C5OY3JfVS7U/U5yjpy5z4II/AAAAAAAACLQ/G5j1GDF76d0/s1600/10414927_890578007634833_629884781987464081_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-C5OY3JfVS7U/U5yjpy5z4II/AAAAAAAACLQ/G5j1GDF76d0/s1600/10414927_890578007634833_629884781987464081_n.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
Edited to add: I made the matching bolero June 2014.<br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-luM7o4P1L30/UoLg_XS6IxI/AAAAAAAABT4/lwgT26yVZWs/s640/blogger-image--827013112.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a></div>
mr.darcy1http://www.blogger.com/profile/03083995194324949931noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5245596887948546178.post-44298972271457949732013-09-15T12:06:00.000-07:002014-06-14T12:33:25.512-07:00Dressing the 1860s<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
My newest project brings me back to the era that started me in historical sewing over eight years ago! I interpret living history at a historic site in the Bay Area that was used from the Civil War to the end of World War II and have been able to make several civilian outfits from the 1910s and 1940s. Now I am branching out to do interpretation at another location at the site that began as a Civil War-era fort, so it's the perfect opportunity to make a new 1860s dress!</div>
<br />
Like I said before, since I haven't made an 1860s dress in many years, and my shape is changing into an athletic build from my other hobby, my usual darted bodice standby no longer fits my chest or arms. My husband draped a bodice for me using Elizaebeth Stewart Clarks instructions in her <i><a href="http://www.thesewingacademy.com/patterns-publications/" target="_blank">Dressmakers Guide</a>. </i>This is what we came up with on the first go-round.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-5TB_UctRtcY/UjcGTwV99II/AAAAAAAABTc/-BLOTnc7fPU/s640/blogger-image--1290861965.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-5TB_UctRtcY/UjcGTwV99II/AAAAAAAABTc/-BLOTnc7fPU/s640/blogger-image--1290861965.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<br /></div>
We added more to drop the shoulder and drafted out D-shaped sleeves based on my sleeve measurements. The back seam is pinched in versus separate side back pieces. I am very excited to finish the mock up today and go to work so I'll have it ready for an event at the end of the month! Here is the fashion fabric:<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-c5ksI4FuarE/UjcGWK2kqJI/AAAAAAAABTk/3TaJl6vxlIY/s640/blogger-image--63630408.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-c5ksI4FuarE/UjcGWK2kqJI/AAAAAAAABTk/3TaJl6vxlIY/s640/blogger-image--63630408.jpg" /></a></div>
<br />
A new set of white collars and cuffs are on my to do list and a silk belt to go with my new Gutta Purcha buckle that I got for a steal since the vendor who sold it thought it was wood. A GP buckle has been on my wish list for years so I am giddy that I finally found one!<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/--BuJHWWrp0c/UjcGRL6RrjI/AAAAAAAABTU/oPe8sxOT-x4/s640/blogger-image--293733607.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/--BuJHWWrp0c/UjcGRL6RrjI/AAAAAAAABTU/oPe8sxOT-x4/s640/blogger-image--293733607.jpg" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
mr.darcy1http://www.blogger.com/profile/03083995194324949931noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5245596887948546178.post-42891311051541759472013-02-15T12:34:00.000-08:002013-02-15T12:34:05.559-08:001852 Diggins Dress<div style="text-align: justify;">
I finally decided on a dress design for the 2013 Columbia Diggins event (even though it's a bit outdated for 1852)!</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
This dress:</div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3zPqgHb6IBM/UR6YDLKojOI/AAAAAAAAAPA/XwbOhA_fDC4/s1600/1996-24-31.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3zPqgHb6IBM/UR6YDLKojOI/AAAAAAAAAPA/XwbOhA_fDC4/s320/1996-24-31.jpg" width="187" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">American Textile History Museum, 1845-1845</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: center;">
with this fabric:</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ur3bszPYWd4/UR6YCDHPObI/AAAAAAAAAO4/1OxEmpTomeE/s1600/23412-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ur3bszPYWd4/UR6YCDHPObI/AAAAAAAAAO4/1OxEmpTomeE/s1600/23412-1.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cheddar and Illuminations Dargate reproduction print. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
and modifying the <a href="http://www.trulyvictorian.net/tvxcart/product.php?productid=17&cat=1&page=1" target="_blank">Truly Victorian 1845 German Day Dress pattern</a>. I'll have to drape the bodice gathering detail, but everything else should be pretty straight forward. The pattern also may need some adjustment around the armscye. I actually ripped the armscye of my favorite work shirt now that my chest, shoulders, arms, and delts are a lot bigger and stronger from weight lifting. I do have plenty of sheer white fabric that I can work with to make a nice chemisette to fill in the lowered neckline if I have the time/inclination. I own a beautiful original chemistte with whitework but it's far too delicate for wear, but is a great inspiration piece. </div>
mr.darcy1http://www.blogger.com/profile/03083995194324949931noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5245596887948546178.post-32548711804392713112012-12-18T12:49:00.004-08:002012-12-18T12:49:44.614-08:00The best laid plans...<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
Not too much sewing going on at my house for the time being. I have next Monday through New Years off and I planned to work on my 1810 quilt project, but my dear grandmother (Tood) passed away last week and my family has been dealing with everything that comes with the death of a loved one. I volunteered to help go through her house the week after Christmas to sort through all her paperwork, belongings to donate etc. While doing some work there yesterday I found a letter she wrote to the whole family in July of this year that she intended to have read after her death, so she knew she didn't have much time left with us. I'm positively devastated and I've lost my mojo in sewing, work, all of it. We are still getting together as a family on Christmas, but it won't be the same without her.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-fvmVkg5e6cY/UNDWgNi-piI/AAAAAAAAAOo/Nq4FxdZXEJ8/s1600/387043_10151096485240768_846666838_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-fvmVkg5e6cY/UNDWgNi-piI/AAAAAAAAAOo/Nq4FxdZXEJ8/s320/387043_10151096485240768_846666838_n.jpg" width="152" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ian, Me, and Tood (June 2012)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />mr.darcy1http://www.blogger.com/profile/03083995194324949931noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5245596887948546178.post-84589544188633821932012-09-14T10:16:00.001-07:002012-09-14T10:16:19.631-07:00Circa 1810 Quilt Project<div style="text-align: justify;">
Even though I have been sewing reproduction clothing for a few years, I have never attempted a quilt...until now. Lindy Miller, quilter extraordinaire, historic fabric enthusiast, and owner of <a href="http://timelesscalicodesigns.com/" target="_blank">Timeless Calico Designs</a>, was kind enough to put together a quilt kit from her wonderful collection of historic reproduction fabrics. She has an <a href="http://timelesscalicodesigns.com/about-us/" target="_blank">online storefront </a>and an <a href="http://www.etsy.com/shop/TimelessCalico" target="_blank">etsy store</a> so check her out! </div>
<br />
<div style="text-align: justify;">
The quilt below will be my first attempt. Lindy recommended it for a beginner quilter like me and I love how colorful and busy the fabrics are! </div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-74V-WBLRNp4/UFNizqc2PnI/AAAAAAAAAN8/5bc6wkHebLw/s1600/quilt.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-74V-WBLRNp4/UFNizqc2PnI/AAAAAAAAAN8/5bc6wkHebLw/s320/quilt.jpg" width="311" /></a></div>
<br />
<div style="text-align: justify;">
My version replaces the feather border and center sashing with this pillar fabric, but with a mustard background, which will make the quilt predominately yellow. It will look smashing with my walnut bedroom furniture!</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ipADTylPMK8/TyWxclah6uI/AAAAAAAAB7E/ZPAd0mAWFmY/s1600/024.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ipADTylPMK8/TyWxclah6uI/AAAAAAAAB7E/ZPAd0mAWFmY/s320/024.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
Has anyone else made a quilt and would like to bestow and few words of wisdom?<br />
<br />mr.darcy1http://www.blogger.com/profile/03083995194324949931noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5245596887948546178.post-30000851334014979502012-07-25T11:31:00.000-07:002012-07-25T16:00:08.315-07:00Libations of the 1840s<div style="text-align: justify;">
Now that summer is here I have been going to our weekly farmer's market and enjoying the bounty of the season: peaches, plums, cherries, squash, strawberries, blackberries, etc., etc. </div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
I made a batch of Brandy Peaches and Cherry Brandy this weekend and will be sharing my culinary adventures with you over the next few weeks / months. <br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5w0578ebZ-s/UA9Ifi6Cd7I/AAAAAAAAANU/7ZiVslIV9ws/s1600/CIMG4032.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5w0578ebZ-s/UA9Ifi6Cd7I/AAAAAAAAANU/7ZiVslIV9ws/s320/CIMG4032.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">California Brandy from Korbel. I used two of these!</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I followed the recipe below from <a href="http://books.google.com/books?id=0z8EAAAAYAAJ" target="_blank">Mrs. Ellis's Housekeeping Made Easy, Or Complete Instructor in All Branches of Cookery and Domestic Economy (1843) </a></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-MjqLksi41ik/UA79i1K2i5I/AAAAAAAAANI/FlIbIAsLG8M/s1600/brandy+peaches+1843.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="176" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-MjqLksi41ik/UA79i1K2i5I/AAAAAAAAANI/FlIbIAsLG8M/s320/brandy+peaches+1843.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Brandy Peaches (1843)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dOxibEv5sy4/UA9IuWoTDCI/AAAAAAAAANc/Q6YAaJen_ok/s1600/CIMG4031.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dOxibEv5sy4/UA9IuWoTDCI/AAAAAAAAANc/Q6YAaJen_ok/s320/CIMG4031.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Eight whole peaches. I added a vanilla bean for extra flavor.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The <a href="http://www.blogger.com/">Cherry Brandy (New Method)</a> recipe from <a href="http://books.google.com/books?id=SnoEAAAAQAAJ&dq=cherry+brandy+%22muslin%22&source=gbs_navlinks_s" target="_blank">French Domestic Cookery (1846)</a> was much more time consuming to prepare to stone all the fruit, boil it down with sugar until is reduced, etc., especially compared with the recipe I used last year, which was merely throwing in the cherries, some sugar, and some spices into a jar with brandy and letting them mingle for awhile! </div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-uLrsS2lJGuw/UA9JdQDQxhI/AAAAAAAAANk/hW8LEC-wjpY/s1600/CIMG4029.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-uLrsS2lJGuw/UA9JdQDQxhI/AAAAAAAAANk/hW8LEC-wjpY/s320/CIMG4029.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Reduced cherries and their juice in the bottle and crock behind. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
I won't be able to follow the recipe exactly, since I was supposed to start the cherries weeks ago when the first batch came into season, and then strain them out and add another later season variety of cherries. I'll probably strain out the cherries after three weeks and check the flavor. If it could stand a few more weeks to age with the cherries I'll go for it. And not wanting anything to go to waste, I'll cook the strained cherries in some sugar and reduce them down farther to make a nice ice cream topping.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dOxibEv5sy4/UA9IuWoTDCI/AAAAAAAAANc/Q6YAaJen_ok/s1600/CIMG4031.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /></a></div>
<br />mr.darcy1http://www.blogger.com/profile/03083995194324949931noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5245596887948546178.post-60644543974869563602012-07-24T12:37:00.000-07:002012-07-24T12:39:48.151-07:00Housewife from The Workwoman's Guide (1838)<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xrQXjMv8G2g/UA72vA0SH2I/AAAAAAAAAM0/f4dyDaTpfU0/s1600/housewife.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="101" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xrQXjMv8G2g/UA72vA0SH2I/AAAAAAAAAM0/f4dyDaTpfU0/s320/housewife.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">p. 212-213</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nAwLHTU_oKg/UA73VbBb-fI/AAAAAAAAAM8/yPq8hHR6uFw/s1600/plate+24.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="107" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nAwLHTU_oKg/UA73VbBb-fI/AAAAAAAAAM8/yPq8hHR6uFw/s320/plate+24.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Figures 19, 20, 21</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Straight out of the pages of the <a href="http://books.google.com/books?id=JCsBAAAAQAAJ&vq=housewife&source=gbs_navlinks_s" target="_blank"><i>Workwoman's Guide</i></a>, this is the perfect project to use up scrap material. The main outer fabric is from a <a href="http://dressingthe1840s.blogspot.com/2011/03/past-patterns-single-breasted-vest.html" target="_blank">vest I made Ian</a>, the pink is from a hand-quilted bonnet my sister made, the scissor area fabric is from a v-neck fan front, and the wool for the needles is from one of Ian's Civil War projects. The pink center has three rows of stitching to keep lengths of different thread separated, as illustrated in the plate above. There is a nice large pocket under the wool flap for buttons, wax, and other small odds and ends.</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4bR86qhBftc/UAs5dJSPrpI/AAAAAAAAAMY/tLxnsR5DylU/s1600/CIMG4013.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="209" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4bR86qhBftc/UAs5dJSPrpI/AAAAAAAAAMY/tLxnsR5DylU/s320/CIMG4013.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Housewife</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
At 28 inches long, this housewife is a lot longer that the Civil War-era housewife's that soldiers carried. <a href="http://www.cowanauctions.com/auctions/item.aspx?ItemId=39428" target="_blank">This</a> example measures 11 inches long.<br />
<br />mr.darcy1http://www.blogger.com/profile/03083995194324949931noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5245596887948546178.post-65182263715209249612012-07-19T13:15:00.000-07:002012-07-19T13:15:42.689-07:001840s Skirt VariationsI have never attempted to play around with different skirt designs in my
1840s wardrobe, but after finding this image I am seriously thinking about it
for my next project.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-s6nCRC7to3g/UAhktd659qI/AAAAAAAAAL8/JnGc9VO1LnU/s1600/11962755230649802_6vt6Fqqs_f.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="245" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-s6nCRC7to3g/UAhktd659qI/AAAAAAAAAL8/JnGc9VO1LnU/s320/11962755230649802_6vt6Fqqs_f.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"The Hypnotist"</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I bought this<a href="http://www.windhamfabrics.net/cgi-bin/fabricshop/gallery.cgi?func=show&file=3&Category=52&Page=1&v=1" target="_blank"> fabric</a> from <a href="http://www.yelp.com/biz/mill-end-fabrics-reno" target="_blank">Mill Ends</a> in Reno a few years ago and know I wanted to really play up the stripes, so I think I will pieces the skirt with the wavy stripes going horizontal at the bottom and the rest vertical. <br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-6iQN2YMFejE/UAhmATRxInI/AAAAAAAAAME/xTkAogoMkIY/s1600/23412-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="280" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-6iQN2YMFejE/UAhmATRxInI/AAAAAAAAAME/xTkAogoMkIY/s320/23412-1.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-jQ9Z9ITFNB0/UAhmAwPtCEI/AAAAAAAAAMM/UYZGSM-Pqqc/s1600/index+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /></a></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-jQ9Z9ITFNB0/UAhmAwPtCEI/AAAAAAAAAMM/UYZGSM-Pqqc/s1600/index+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-jQ9Z9ITFNB0/UAhmAwPtCEI/AAAAAAAAAMM/UYZGSM-Pqqc/s320/index+1.jpg" width="217" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Another skirt variation</td></tr>
</tbody></table>mr.darcy1http://www.blogger.com/profile/03083995194324949931noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5245596887948546178.post-40285782390234957652012-07-13T15:45:00.003-07:002012-07-13T15:45:52.294-07:001845-1848 DressI love <a href="http://chace.athm.org/singleDisplay.php?kv=40308" target="_blank">this</a> dress beyond words. The little V-neck with lace insert, the lovely draped bodice, the tight sleeves with wrist trim. SIGH. This is what I love about the 1840s: Loud and fitted!<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-M2CQsqoq_Y0/UACkZy0qaeI/AAAAAAAAALw/LhvVIXfXYRk/s1600/1996-24-31.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-M2CQsqoq_Y0/UACkZy0qaeI/AAAAAAAAALw/LhvVIXfXYRk/s320/1996-24-31.jpg" width="185" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">American Textile History Museum</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />mr.darcy1http://www.blogger.com/profile/03083995194324949931noreply@blogger.com2