Before the crinoline came into fashion in 1856, multiple petticoats were used to achieve the bell shape under women's skirts. Here's an original from the Corsets and Crinoline website that was part of my inspiration:
The base layer I use is a corded petticoat made from plain weave cotton and Sugar and Cream cotton yarn. There are 90 rows total.
|Sewing in cords|
Here's a useful step by step guide from Elizabeth Stewart Clark's revamped website:
|Yes, this took awhile even on the machine!|
The 1840s waistline is longer than the natural waistline, so to reduce bulk at the waist I made a yoked waistband for the petticoat.