1840s Pleated Bertha

 Inspired by this dress from the Tasha Tudor collection, I made a pleated bertha out of 100% silk duchess satin with a hard backing for my wedding dress:

Detail of pleated bertha.

 To make my life easier I used the Civil War Ballgown Simplicity 5724 bertha pattern pieces.

Simplicity 5724 

I attached piped lozenges at the berth front and shoulder seams (like the original dress) and the back closed with hooks and eyes.

Bertha back, note lozenges over shoulder seam.